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8: HOW TO SOCIALISE (SOCIALIZE) YOUR DOG OR PUPPY - THE EASY WAY!
These are extracts from my 17000+ word, dog and puppy training/care guide, 'How to train a dog or puppy - The FUN WAY!!!'. These extracts are a 'preview' and have been reduced. The full version of my popular dog training guide is for sale here.
8.
Socialising your dog.
Socialising your dog is very important. A well socialised dog keeps calm
under unpredictable conditions. For example, if you’re walking your
dog on the beach and a 4 year old child runs up to your dog and pulls
its tail, you definitely want your dog to be used to people and children
and know how to react. Teaching this type of thing is difficult to do
specifically. It’s all about day to day socialising, and showing
them guidance when they’re with you. Many behavioural problems in
dogs are caused by a lack of socialisation while they are young. A good
start is to let your dog ‘say hello’ to everyone you meet,
for the first few months.
When your puppy is new to the world, everything looks very big and intimidating. So they need lots of reassurance and fun to help them settle. Similarly when your dog or puppy comes across something new they will react in a way that is natural to them. What you don't want is your dog to start becoming aggressive in unusual situations. If your dog gets aggressive, especially with a person, you must shout ‘No’ at the top of your voice and pull them back to you on the lead. The shock of you shouting will usually make the dog realise they must not repeat that behaviour. So socialising is all about getting out in the world with you as their guide as to what is ok to do, and what is not.
Socialising a dog while they are a puppy is always easier, as they are smaller and easier to keep control of. Do take the time to introduce your puppy to any situation or sights and sounds you expect them to come across in later life.
When your puppy is old enough it’s always good to go for walks down busy(ish) high streets and parks. They’ll absorb all the smells and sounds as non-threatening and in future will accept them as normal. Try not to do everything too quickly or your dog may become overwhelmed and panic. Give good praise and reassurance when they behave well and clearly say “no” if they do something you disapprove of followed by no reward or praise.
Good things to introduce to your puppy are:
- Lots of friendly people!
- Children and elderly people. (Always watch children with dogs)
- Other dogs (especially if they are friendly and not too skittish!)
- Traffic – Cars, Lorries and motor-bikes
- Trains (and the station)
- Bicycles
- Rivers and lakes (keep an eye on them!)
- Boats
- Horses
- Wide open fields with rabbits (to try to prevent that focused chasing)
- Parks
- Wild animals (e.g. squirrels, rabbits and ducks etc)
- Bridges
- Thunder and lightening
- Vacuum cleaners, brushes and brooms
- Any other noisy household appliances
- Being on their own
It’s not a good idea to be with your puppy all the time. They have to learn to be on their own sometimes, and starting this while their young is much easier. Try leaving them alone for small periods each day, so they get used to it. However leaving your puppy on their own for too long is even more problematic, often it results in your puppy becoming attention-seeking (noisy), destructive and badly-behaved.
Walking in the park or on the beach are excellent ways of introducing your puppy to other people and dogs - make sure they’ve had the correct vaccinations though. Don’t let them off the lead until you are confidant they’ll come back to you, however once off the lead they will no doubt go shooting off after the nearest dog or person. A good trick in this situation is to call them back with ‘Come’ and as soon as they look at you, quickly turn away from them and ‘pretend’ to run away (like your going to leave without them). This almost always initiates a feeling of being left behind due to them having gone too far from you. They should run straight back to you. If they do come back to you, praise them lots and carry on with your walk. This is a way of learning the ‘Come’ command - it’s not a very safe way though (the best way is mentioned later).
Always praise your dog for behaving well especially out in public, it’s a very busy place for a dog, and to concentrate on getting things right (even half the time!) is a great achievement.
‘Puppy classes at your local vets’ is another great way of your dog meeting new people and other puppies. You’ll start to notice their usual behaviours with other dogs (submissive/inquisitive/aggressive etc) and if necessary slowly change it to your wants but also let your puppy be an individual too. Puppy classes are also excellent ways of swapping knowledge and tips with other owners. And finding out about your local vets practice and all about different feeds and regular treatments your dog will need.
9.
Dogs and children.
It’s important your dog meets children. I’ve made a short
list of things to know about having dogs and children together:
Dogs and Children:
- If you have just got a new dog or puppy, children in the house should let them settle in gently. Ask them not to hit, poke and prod the dog! And not to wake up them up when they’re sleeping.
- A dog is not a plaything like a toy, ask children not to treat them as such.
- Never let young children try to pick up a dog, they may do it roughly or incorrectly, hurting the dog, and the dog may react badly.
- Always supervise your dog with children (especially if they’ve never met before) until you are certain there won’t be problems.
- If there are lots of children visiting your house make sure you give your dog a place it can go to be away from all the noise and partying!
13. Fun, Fun and more fun!
Once your dog knows it’s fun to be around you, they will be up for lots of fun walks and exercises, and the relationship between you and your dog will grow. Throwing balls or toys for your dog to retrieve or chase is great fun for your dog (and you if you’ve got a good ‘fetch’ command). Once you are confidant in the behaviour of your dog in public, you could buy a tennis ball ‘thrower’ for extra long throws. They are great tools for exercising your dog, especially if you can’t throw very far. If your dog is under 3 months they may not see the ball if it’s thrown high and far, as a young doggie’s eyes and brain are still developing, they’ll find it difficult to ‘track’ fast and far objects.
I wouldn’t recommend throwing stones for your dog unless you’re a very accurate shot, you could accidentally hurt them. Also stones may crack or wear you’re your dogs teeth when they are picked up or carried in the mouth.
Hoses can be great fun for your dog, as can sprinklers, most dogs have a great time chasing the water as it come out, and it’s very amusing too! If you let them do this just watch out they don’t get too cold, even on a sunny day a soaking wet coat will really cool down a dog, even if they are trying to catch the spray all day! Give them a good drying off afterwards.
Squeaky toys, you either love them or hate them! I love them, they keep my dog happy and exercised as she tries to destroy them, and they keep her off my furniture legs. There are several different types; I find that dogs prefer the cloth ones filled with fluffy stuff. However they only want to pluck all the threads out (one by one – you should see the concentration!) and pull the fluff everywhere, so we keep these toys to a minimum and throw them away once opened. The best kind is the fairly solid plasticized rubber ones, they have proved almost indestructible, and last a long time. We have one that is over 3 years old and is still going strong! If you’re lucky the shrill annoying squeak mechanism will fail (under constant attack!) and become a lot quieter.
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THESE WERE EXTRACTS FROM MY
DOG CARE AND TRICK TRAINING GUIDE...
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be doing plagiarism searches regularly)
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